Friday 15th Jan

I spent the early morning bird spotting, during which I saw several black ones, a yellow one that munched on the backs of flowers, and one that may or may not have been an insect. Alvin seemed distinctly unimpressed that I can only name the birds of Nicaragua. I think the yellow one might have been a fly catcher of some variety.

After breakfast we shifted to Ciaran’s Camp, home to the classiest huts on the beach. We have our own little veranda with wooden chairs, a small glass table and a hammock in which I am typing this whilst being devoured by genetically modified mosquitoes. I’m covered in huge itchy welts - dengue fever ahoy. We also have hot water which I well recall to be the very height of luxury from my backpacking days. Let no-one claim that I’ve been spoilt by excessive conference hotels.

We rented a double kayak while it was still cloudy and rowed out to the headland, clashing paddles all the way as we were neither of us are overly talented at it. A pair of chatty Indians from Tamil Nadu paddled alongside us for a friendly race which they easily won. We came back in on a decent wave, almost crushing a reckless herd of swimmers in front of us.

After lunch undertook some vigorous sunbathing, disturbed only by the audible gasps of the hawkers who had never seen someone so pasty. Several of them sought to reassure me that in a few days I’ll start looking healthier. I apologised for my unnatural skin tone.

Had South Indian thali for dinner (is this the least punishing country in the world in which to be vegetarian?) whilst watching a delightful sunset and quaffing beer. This was followed by a walk along the beach past some atrocious live music to a bar with decadent seating. You sprawled out on the floor in a heap of cushions. We had cocktails which were rather better than the previous night’s.